The concept of food being considered solely for its health benefits makes me feel a little squirrelly. Of course, what we eat & drink is directly linked to keeping us alive. But stripping away the pleasures of eating is tinged with some sadness, more than a tip toe away from the bigger, richer world of enjoying life. Save my achy joints and stuffy nose, I just want it all.
We eat a lot of plants, from the leaves to the fruit, seeds, nuts, stems, and roots. Many of these parts we understand, but others not so much. And we often think that if part of a plant is underground it’s a root (we do understand foods like potatoes, which are classified as tubers, that grow in the soil and store energy-giving carbohydrates and nutrients for the plant.) And we do eat roots—like carrots, parsnips, radishes, beets, and turnips. But what about the flavor-filled gnarly ginger (sometimes called gingerroot) and turmeric, with fingers that look like big bugs? They’re rhizomes, defined as a kind of stem that moves nutrients to other parts of their parent plant—versus a root that anchors a plant in the earth and pulls moisture and nutrients into the plant. Digging into the semantics and science of all this, the very simple answer is that rhizomes store starches and proteins for their plant—and are often called creeping rootstalk because of their horizontal growth pattern that’s often underground. Huh…not sure if I’m explaining this well, but it does make some sense to me that rhizomes like ginger and turmeric are valued for the depth of their flavor and use, from ancient times, as functional foods. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, even antimicrobial, they enjoy cult status in the medicine cabinet of stuff we eat.
Right now, I’m surrounded by coughing, sneezing, and achy folk. In these winter months we stash ourselves indoors to keep warm and crowd onto airplanes to escape the cold—exposing ourselves to every airborne bug looking for a good host. I’m struggling with arthritis, too. So what’s a suffering person to do? Opening up the spice drawer certainly can’t hurt, and even my very Western doc is encouraging dabbling in alternatives that can enhance mainstream meds. Turmeric, ginger, and cinnamon have accepted research that supports their effectiveness in making us feel better. Ginger has always been my friend, a reliable antidote for an upset stomach & a sure-fire answer to sinus woes. Cinnamon is such a staple that it’s just expected in many recipes, both savory & sweet. But for me, turmeric is a love/hate thing. I’ve avoided commercial Madras curry powder for years because I thought it was the somewhat musty flavor of dried turmeric I disliked. But I’m wondering now, as I take another look at using both fresh turmeric (which is much easier to find these days) and dried. It can be a tricky ingredient, needing balance with other partners in a recipe—and less is more in my book. But I absolutely prefer to focus on using it as a foodstuff vs. a capsule from the health food store. So here are a few ways to dip a toe into embracing the pleasures of turmeric. One kitchen note: beware of its strong pigment (it’s often used as a natural dye for textiles)—peeling and chopping the fresh knobs guarantees brightly colored fingers. I like to use a designated cutting board, so its deeply golden hue doesn’t stain my favorite everyday board. Go forth & feel better!
GOLDEN MILK TO CURE WHAT AILS YA
Makes 2 servings
This is a good dose of warming spices to clear your head & fortify your spirit. Golden milk is deeply rooted in the Ayurvedic whole-body health and wellness tradition. It’s become really popular lately, touted for its beneficial properties, on top of the spiced flavor. Its main ingredient—turmeric—is the source of the brilliant yellow color + its active ingredient, curcumin. Studies have shown curcumin to be effective in reducing inflammation and boosting the immune system. Dried ginger, cinnamon, and a grind or two of black peppercorns (which enhances the absorption of the curcumin) add to the overall pleasure of sipping a hot mug of golden milk to wake up in the morning or before bed.
INGREDIENTS
3 cups whole milk (or alternative milk if you prefer)
1-1/2 to 2 teaspoons ground turmeric*
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon each ground cardamom and nutmeg, if you’d like
A few good grinds of fresh black peppercorns
About 2 tablespoons honey or to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. Pour the milk into a small saucepan and gently warm it over medium heat. Stir in the spices and honey.
2. Continue heating on medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, whisking a few times until it’s very warm—but don’t let it boil. Use a milk frother if you’d like to foam up the milk.
3. Pour into two mugs and sprinkle with a little ground turmeric, cinnamon, or nutmeg. Drink hot or chilled (stir well if you do refrigerate it, as the spices and honey will settle.)
*Turmeric can become quite bitter in large amounts, so use a free hand to decide how much you like in this blend. I lean toward the lesser amount, but that can depend on whether I drink the milk warm or chilled.
TURMERIC ‘N SPICE COCONUT CHICKEN
Makes 6 servings
Spoon this vibrant creamy curry sauce over roasted or sautéed chicken, partnered with steamed basmati rice that’s flavored with freshly toasted cumin seeds. If you can get them, use chopped kaffir lime leaves for the grated lime peel. And it’s totally okay to use a mini chopper to grind the curry paste.
INGREDIENTS
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken breast halves*
Ghee (clarified butter) or canola oil
Coarse salt & freshly ground pepper to taste
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
¾ teaspoon cardamom seeds
1 (2-inch) piece fresh turmeric, peeled, coarsely chopped
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed, tender center part coarsely chopped
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon grated lime zest
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 (15-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk, stirred well
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon fennel seed, lightly toasted
Toasted shaved unsweetened coconut, fresh cilantro leaves, and/or sliced green onions and hot chiles
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat oven to 425ËšF. Place the chicken on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons ghee or oil; season with salt & pepper. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes or until no longer pink in the center.
2. Meanwhile, place red pepper flakes in a large mortar & pestle. Pound for 1 minute. Add cardamom seeds; continue pounding and grinding until nearly powdered.
3. Add the turmeric, lemongrass, ginger, lime zest, garlic cloves, and shallot one at a time, pounding and grinding until a paste forms.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons ghee in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Spoon spice paste into the skillet; cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes or until fragrant, stirring constantly. Stir in coconut milk, brown sugar, cinnamon stick, and fennel seeds.
5. Increase heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.
6. Serve chicken with the sauce, garnished with toasted coconut, cilantro, green onions, and a sprinkle of sliced hot chiles, if you’d like.
* I really prefer bone-in skin-on chicken breasts, but boneless breasts or thighs work well too. Sauté them in ghee or vegetable oil until golden brown and no longer pink in the center in the large skillet before making the sauce.