Bread & Butter
A "me too" ode to indulgence
I know few folk who don’t love butter. But won’t indulge. This is my permission to let yourself go (I know, my keto friends already have)—a bite or two won’t hurt you. Recently I’ve been receiving my newsletter from a very fun food writer I admire, Betty Williams (of bettyeatz), who’s currently celebrating compound butters (and breads that are the perfect vehicle for transporting said butters—no for my keto friends—yes to the rest of us). And I had to shamelessly weigh in.
When I worked on my recipes for the guidebook/cookbook I co-authored, featuring wild mushrooms, I included an incredible butter featuring black trumpets. If you’re lucky enough to either forage or be gifted dried trumpets, consider yourself quite fortunate. The earthy sweetness of them, paired with sautéed shallots, make a stunning butter worthy of the holidays.
Here, too, is an easy textured bread that pairs well with just about anything you serve up this time of year. You can switch up the grains & seeds you use if you’re so inclined.
ELEGANT BLACK TRUMPET-SHALLOT BUTTER
Makes about ¾ cup
This is the little black dress of compound butters—visually arresting, with a slightly fruity savoriness. Make other compound butters with dried morels or king boletes—rehydrating part of them and pulverizing the rest into a powder to stir into the butter.
INGREDIENTS
½ ounce (1/2 cup) dried black trumpet mushrooms
1 teaspoon olive oil
3 tablespoons very finely chopped shallot
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, softened
A few shakes Worcestershire sauce or to taste
Lemon juice and freshly ground pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. Just cover the mushrooms with warm tap water; let stand for about 20 minutes or until plumped and softened. Swish the mushrooms around and lift from the soaking liquid, leaving any grit in the bowl. Squeeze any excess liquid from the mushrooms, then very finely chop. Strain the liquid through a double-folded piece of cheesecloth or coffee filter.
2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chopped mushrooms and shallot; sauté for 2 minutes. Pour the filtered soaking liquid into the skillet; simmer until evaporated and the mushrooms and shallots are very tender. Cool.
3. Stir the mushroom-shallot mixture into the softened butter; season with Worcestershire, a splash of lemon, and ground pepper. Mix until well blended; spoon onto a piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap and form the butter into a log. Chill until firm. Keep chilled or freeze up to 6 months.
© Lisa Golden Schroeder, from Untamed Mushrooms: From Field to Table.
CRUSTY DAKOTA HEARTH ROLLS
Makes 20 rolls
Rustic, crusty rolls like these keep well and are a good choice to serve with one-dish meals. You could turn the dough into a larger loaf, but it’s nice to have the mini version so you can bake once & freeze some of them if 20 rolls are more than you need at once.
INGREDIENTS
2 (¼-oz.) pkg. active dry yeast
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
2¼ cups warm water (105°F to 115°F)
1½ cups cooked wild rice or wheat berries
1 tablespoon salt
2½ cups whole wheat flour
2 to 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour
About ½ cup coarsely chopped hulled pumpkin seeds
About ¼ cup unsalted sunflower seeds
About 2 tablespoons whole grain millet
Cornmeal
DIRECTIONS
1. In a large bowl, dissolve yeast and sugar in ½ cup of the water; let stand 5 minutes. Stir in remaining 1¾ cups water, wild rice, salt and whole wheat flour, beating with wooden spoon until smooth. Add 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, beating again until smooth. Gradually stir in remaining all-purpose flour until soft dough is formed that just clears side of bowl.
2. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. Knead 2 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Flatten dough with hands; sprinkle with pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and millet. Fold dough over; knead gently until ingredients are incorporated into dough. Place in greased bowl; turn dough greased side up and dust with a little flour. Cover; let rise in warm place 1 to 1½ hours or until doubled in size.
3. Sprinkle 2 large baking sheets with cornmeal. Punch dough down. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface; divide into 4 pieces. Divide each piece into 5 equal portions, making 20 pieces of dough. Shape into round balls; press to flatten slightly. Place on baking sheets, 1 inch apart. Cover; let rise in warm place 30 to 40 minutes or until nearly doubled in size.
4. Heat oven to 400°F, with baking stone on bottom oven rack, if desired. Snip around edge of each roll 4 or 5 times, cutting nearly to center with kitchen shears; lightly dust tops with flour. Bake on baking sheets or baking stone (bake on lower and upper racks, switching positions halfway through baking) 18 to 22 minutes or until lightly browned around edges. Serve warm.
I love your take on compound butter, Lisa!!! It sounds so flavor packed and delicious! Thanks for the shoutout, friend! 💞
what a good earthy nov idea! I will look out for them at the markets