And What's That Got To Do With the Cost of Eggs?
Notes from the field...politics, pop culture, and omelettes
We’ve been thinking about eggs a lot lately. But probably not as much as two, hardworking people I know. My cousins Rob & Donna Melton, own and run Honey & Co., a brunch spot in Salem, Oregon. And are sweating seven days a week over their egg-centric menu. The two “honeys” are caught up in both the politics and real-life access to a commodity we all take for granted. On a recent family visit, I was on an early morning hunt for a coffee fix. After snagging my dairy-free latte at a close-by grocery, I found myself in the self-checkout line behind a guy pushing a huge flatbed cart, close to toppling over with cartons of eggs. And quickly realized I knew the guy! Near-empty cooler shelves are forcing Rob to scour his local sources daily for favorable pricing that meets the demands of his narrow profit margins. Ya gotta crack a lotta eggs to make oodles of omelettes.
Despite shortages and crazy pricing, eggs are still indispensable. And still one of the cheapest proteins around. They’re most definitely on my short list of favorite foods—and at Honey & Co. omelettes & scrambles rule. But their stand-out sides also include housemade fluffy biscuits the size of your head, doused with a thick sausage gravy. Or if you’re up for a one-meal day, Rob’s spiced corned beef hash is made from slow-cooked brisket he stays up late to babysit, topped with a fried egg (of course.) The menu also endorses an early tipple, with a list of highflying mimosas—my fave is spiked with a thick cucumber-mint syrup made from rock candy (Rob’s roots are as a high-end bar manager & classic cocktails are his jam.) But a chance episode of The Bear made French omelettes a new, timely cornerstone of an already pretty great menu.
So what makes an omelette French? When I was in high school & determined to learn French, my first textbook had a story about a fairytale place on the tiny tidal island of Mont-Saint-Michel in northern France. Once home to an ancient abbey and a fortified city, it’s been a tourist attraction for years. And its most famous restaurant proudly served la Mère Poulard’s omelettes. The old textbook featured a photo (probably from the 1950s) of a cook at that auberge, placing an old long-handled copper skillet filled with beaten egg into an open fireplace. The technique is all about high heat, moving the eggs quickly, and deftly tipping the pan to roll them onto a plate while still soft in the center, with absolutely no browning on the outside—all in a matter of a minute or two. When I finally visited years later, that omelette was what I wanted—and paid the hefty tariff for the privilege of having one made in the same tradition.
Honey & Co.’s French omelettes are an homage to the “light meals” my Uncle Terry (Rob’s dad) would make. “Sliced tomatoes, crunchy bread with salted butter, cold bacon from the depths of the paper towel folds in the refrigerator, and a perfect French omelette. Always not quite set in between the center, but not liquid. Eggs, butter, salt and white pepper, nothing else. It was glorious,” he told me.
But “The Bear” cemented those omelettes on their menu—tender, sunshine-yellow, and filled with herby Boursin cheese with a final shower of crushed sour cream ‘n onion potato chips.
“When I saw the show, it made me hungry for a meal with my father—food should evoke that kind of emotion,” he said. “The final sprinkle of crushed chips, for me, needs to be cheap and un-ridged. Much like cheap beer, there is something magical about cheap potato chips. Over-salted, a not quite real taste...crunchy goodness. I love the fluffy, creamy, fatty goodness of a slightly undercooked egg too. Of course swimming in salted butter doesn't hurt. I’m happy with about every fifth omelette I get—they’re a pain in the ass to make!”
This is the point where I direct you to an awesome video of French chef, Jacques Pepin, showing us how to make a proper French omelette. Because I never fully mastered the technique, I’ll let him take the lead. I really like browned eggs, often making what Jacques calls “country style” omelettes. But in cooking school I was delighted by souffléed eggs—a hybrid of a quick omelette with a fancy soufflé (which can be savory or sweet). I’m giving you a more lavish (fussier) option that’s worth the extra minutes. I love blue cheese of any kind, and Madame Poulard would offer a creamy blue (probably a Fourme d’Ambert, one of France’s oldest cheeses) as a companion, if plain eggs were not distinguished enough.
No amount of political bluster will solve the reality of avian flu, only the valiant efforts of farmers and time will eventually slow the outbreak. Keep supporting growers and we’ll get through this.
SWANKY FRENCH SOUFFLÉ OMELETTES
Makes 2 servings
I feel very chic when I make omelettes for supper—channeling my inner Elizabeth David, with a glass of red wine. While a classic French omelette is often made with only a refined sprinkle of fines herbes and maybe a spoonful of grated cheese, these puffy folded omelettes are gilded with honey-glazed apples and bacon + more than a spoonful of crumbled roquefort cheese. I love that these embody the best of a soufflé—golden brown on the outside, tender and light in the center. Since it’s still wintery, a salad of frisée lettuce or curly endive, tossed with chopped dried figs and toasted walnuts, then dressed with a good splash of walnut oil & tarragon vinegar (or a fruity balsamic) would be perfect.
TOPPING
2 slices thick-sliced bacon, thinly sliced crosswise
1 small apple, thinly sliced
1 medium leek, sliced lengthwise, rinsed, and thinly sliced crosswise
3 tablespoons honey
EGGS
6 large eggs
2 tablespoons cream or milk
1 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled (this is optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons butter
½ cup crumbled blue or aged goat cheese
DIRECTIONS
1. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until crisp. Scoop out the bacon pieces to a small dish; set aside.
2. Add the apple slices and leeks to the bacon fat; cover and cook over medium heat for about 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until very tender and golden brown. Stir in the honey and return the bacon pieces to the skillet. Cover to keep the topping warm; set aside while you make the omelettes.
3. Make one omelette at a time: separate 3 eggs, putting the yolks into a medium bowl and the whites into a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon cream and ½ teaspoon tarragon to the yolks and season well with salt and pepper. Beat with a fork until well mixed.
4. With a wire whisk (or you can use an electric mixer if you like) beat the whites until they form firm, glossy peaks.
5. Gently fold some of the egg whites into the yolks, mixing until streaky. Fold in the remaining whites.
6. Heat a 9- to 10-inch skillet or omelette pan over medium heat. Add a knob of butter; heat until melted & bubbly. Pour the egg mixture into the pan; smooth the eggs with a spatula and cover the skillet. Cook about 3 minutes or until the bottom is brown. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the top; cover and cook 3 to 4 minutes longer. Fold the thick omelette in half and carefully slide onto a warm plate.
7. Make a second omelette with the remaining eggs and tarragon.
8. Spoon the topping over each omelette and serve right away.
Something You Can Do for Me (I’m cribbing this note from another writer…)
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Thanks Mary!
Thanks Kelly! That means a lot to me, knowing how much you cook!